For Friday’s flight let’s go to France’s Southwest to explore some fun varieties we don’t talk about enough like Gros Manseng, Tannat, Negrette and Fer. This was, by far, the hardest flight to put together so far due to the fact that I had to work with several different distributors to find 8 wines, but I’m excited. I’ve been blown away by the wines of France’s Southwest and can’t wait to share them.
Even among top sommeliers, the wines of Southwest France are considered to be some of the most exciting and intriguing in the world. This, after all, is an ancient territory, a wild landscape in which every hillside and river bend hide a new wine to be discovered.
The region’s history goes back millennia, to when Romans planted wine grapes here as they developed vineyards across France: Even thousands of years ago, the potential for greatness was clear in this part of the country. From the 12th century onward, abbeys and monasteries took hold in Southwest France to welcome pilgrims as they traveled through on the increasingly popular Camino de Santiago from northern Europe, which served to further cultivate local viticulture, spread native varieties, and import new ones. Today, the wines are as stunning as ever, thanks to a willingness to look forward but also a deep, abiding respect for the past.
Southwest France is full of producers who are “sticking to their history, staying true to their roots,” explains Jeff Harding, wine director of the Waverly Inn in New York. That respect for the region’s unparalleled wine heritage, know-how acquired over decades working these vineyards, and a willingness to buck trends and produce wine of idiosyncratic character and deliciousness, are what set it apart. So, too, is the tapestry of local grape varieties that are so deliciously emblematic of the region, alongside the international varieties that also thrive there.
Famille Balaran Gaillac Blanc “Les Bons Vivants” 2022 (70% Muscadelle, 20% Loin de L’Oeil, 10% Sauvignon Blanc) $17 Gaillac wines are considered one of France’s oldest. When the Romans came to this area, they quickly discovered they could make excellent wine using their grape varietals. Bright acidity with an aromatic nose followed by apple, pear and citrus tones.
Domaine de Pajot Cotes de Gascogne Rouge “Le Betoulin” 2020 $13(75% merlot 25% cabernet) Côtes de Gascogne is a wine-growing district in Gascony producing principally white wine. It is mainly located in the département of the Gers in the former Midi-Pyrénées region (now part of the Occitanie region), and it belongs to the wine region South West France. The designation Côtes de Gascogne is used for a Vin de Pays (“country wine”) produced in the Armagnac area. Bright blue fruit tones with ample fruit and soft tannins.
Christophe Avi Buzet 2017 $18 (merlot + cabernet) Upstream from Bordeaux along the Garonne River lie the vineyards of Buzet, just north of Armagnac and southwest of Cahors. Buzet was recognized as an Appellation in 1973, as its clay limestone soils are ideal for Merlot and Cabernet Sauvignon. Christophe tends to these vines with the utmost respect for biodiversity of the terroir and this cuvée is vinified without oak. Buzet offers a rich and elegant nose of red and black fruits. Fruit flavors on the palate mingle agreeably with the finesse of the tannins.
Domaine Capmartin Madiran 2019 $21 (100% Tannat) Madiran was created as an AOC in 1948, and only red wine can be produced under this appellation. The main grape variety in Madiran AOC is Tannat, which must make up at least 60% of the vineyard (Vineyards with less than 60% Tannat are still entitled to the appellation through 2022). Very dark purple in colour, the nose has restrained black fruit, floral notes and toasted oak. The intense palate is full and firm with blackberry and blackcurrant fruit in abundance.
Chateau Flotis Negrette de Fronton “Si Noire” 2012 $22 (100% Negrette). Most of the Fronton area wines (about 85%) are red wines made primarily of the Fronton’s exclusive grape variety Négrette(minimum 50% in the blend). The Négrette (sometimes known as Pinot St. George when grown in the United States) gives the wine fruity and delicate features, providing a powerful red wine, dark and tannic, with aromas of violet and licorice.
Gisèle Bordenave Jurançon Sec Encore et Encore 2021 $23 (Gros and Petite Manseng) region in South West France in the foothills of the Pyrenees, around the commune of Jurançon. It produces a dry white wine and a more sought after sweet white wine. The grape varieties used are Gros Manseng, Petit Manseng and Courbu. Notes of exotic fruits, white flowers and a well-balanced mellow and fresh palate at the same time that make it a wine of all moments, delicate and fine.
Laurens Marcillac Pierres Rouges (100% Fer Servadou) $23 The appellation covers an area of 200 hectares (494 acres) just a few kilometers northwest of Rodez, the administrative capital of the department. It is known for its unique Fer vines that line the steep hillsides of the 11 communes and produce the spicy, aromatic red wine that comes from the variety. A delightful colour with ruby highlights. The aromas is of red fruits and blackcurrants with a spicy aftertaste.
Château de Gaudou Cahors “Renaissance” 2017 $27 (100% Malbec) Cahors a red wine made from grapes grown in or around the town of Cahors in the Lot department of southern France. Cahors is an Appellation d’origine contrôlée (AOC) (Controlled designation of origin) associated with part of the South West France wine-region. The dominant grape variety in AOC Cahors wines, Malbec (known locally as “Auxerrois” or “Côt”) must make up a minimum of 70% of the wine. Winemakers may supplement the Malbec with up to 30% Merlot and/or Tannat. Equally full of fruit and acidity, this wine has a solid structure. Black-currant flavors are supported by the dense tannic texture.
We still have few cases of the 2023 Buckman Pinot Noir so grab a few bottles before it’s gone.
$12 for flight of 5 with 3 additional pours available for purchase.
